This is another in the series of pieces that began with The Photogenic Moment, and continued with It’s all about Patterns.
The vast majority of digital cameras sold today are sold with a zoom lens. Your average entry level Point and Shoot will have a 3x zoom. 4 and 5x zooms are becoming the norm for anything above entry level. The top of the line P&Ss come with 15-20x zooms today: the equivalent of a true wide angle to a fairly long telephoto lens on an old fashioned 35mm film camera (witch still sets the standard by which we judge relative focal lengths and fields of view) or a full frame DSLR: that is equivalent to a 28mm to over 500mm lens. Even entry level DSLRs come with a kit lens that is generally a moderate wide to moderate tel zoom (35mm-105mm).
Most beginning photographers (and many advanced ones, if truth were told) think of the zoom as means of fitting in more of the room or more faces inside, or taking in the majestic sweep of a landscape outside, at the wide end, and then being able to zoom up to high power to bring distant things close, outside, or to fill the frame with a single face out of the crowd inside. They think close or far: zoom out, zoom in.
And, once more, if truth were told, most photographers use their zooms either at the full wide end, or the full telephoto, wishing for more at either end…and rarely anywhere in between.
In reality though, as you grow as a photographer, you will realize that the main function of the zoom on your camera is simply to control the size of the frame you are filling with image. A big frame, as in a group shot or wide landscape, is at the wide angle end of the zoom. A small frame, as in a portrait or a more intimate landscape, if found at the telephoto end of the zoom. And there are an infinite range of frame sizes in between, each appropriate for some image.
You could grow a lot as a photographer by making a commitment to yourself to use the full range of your zoom…to take images at every possible setting.
Here is a classic case. All examples here are from the Sony DSC H50 with a 15x zoom: 31mm to 465mm equivalent.
A wide angle shot (31mm equivalent), cropped from the bottom to look even wider, and…
A telephoto shot taken at the about 70mm equivalent from the same position. I did not use the zoom to bring the trees closer. I used it to adjust the size of the frame within which the trees appear.
Or another pair from the same day.
Framed at about 70mm equivalent.
Framed at about 250mm equivalent from the same spot, and cropped from the bottom and top to make it look wider.
Or take this pair:
At full wide (31mm equivalent) and then…
this, taken at about 300mm equivalent from the same spot…framing just a segment of the foam in the shot above.
Of course, this is not a question of right or wrong…good zoom or bad zoom. I am consciously using the zoom on the camera to adjust the size of my frame. What I fill it with, once it is adjusted, is another matter (see It is all about patterns… ).
In this shot, I used the camera zoom, at about 250mm equivalent, to isolate (frame) just a portion of the cactus…the part I was interested in. I could have accomplished the same thing by moving closer to the cactus, of course, but, hay, that’s what the zoom is for!
Here is a sequence of three shots, all taken from the same spot, with different zoom settings, for dramatically different effects.
By using the zoom to alter the size of the frame, I am able to create everything from landscape to abstract, without moving a step.
For the following shot I wanted to emphasize the Rhodora at the foot of the trees. Zooming in to 180mm equivalent allowed me to frame shot so that there is a balance between the flowering shrubs and the trees.
Or, again, two shots from the same position with very different zoom settings: full telephoto at 465mm equivalent, and full wide at 31mm equivalent.
Chances are very good you have zoom on your P&S camera. Think of it as a framing tool…the means by which you control the size of the frame you fill with your image…then use it…use every setting. Experiment with all the different size frames you might apply on any scene, from any single location.
Your images will be the better for it.